what is c12 13 pareth-3 and exposure to heat
Silicones offer multifunctional solutions
In today's fast-paced and competitive personal intendance market, fashion and expert looks increasingly depend on evolving, high-performance engineering, while consumers likewise look for ways to soothe, pamper and protect their bodies and their appearance.
In part because pilus vitality has get an expression of overall health, these trends are currently reflected in the hair care market. Demand for protective products is on the rising and a significant number of products currently offer protection claims. Out of ane,155 pilus care products recorded in 2007 and early 2008, 31% claimed strengthening, twenty% color protection, and 13% heat protection.one
What is hair protection?
The global value growth of conditioners, hair colouring products, and shampoos outpaced the overall growth of the hair care segment from 2006 to 2007. Gillian Morris, director at Kline & Visitor, notes that during this timeframe and through 2008, hair protection has become an important functionality and label merits in many hair care products, from hair colouring to workout and styling. Through daily washing and styling regimens, pilus is stripped of its moisture and natural oils and becomes breakable and wearisome. Every bit Gillian Morris explains, pilus that has been temporarily or permanently dyed is especially in need of protection to maintain status and colour. Environmental factors, stress, poor diet and hormonal changes also detrimentally affect the condition and thickness of pilus.2 Other factors can include heated grooming tools, chlorine from pools, ocean h2o, and even sweat. Some hair may be naturally prone to impairment but because of its very thin or fine nature. In addition to protecting pilus from potential harm, the concept of repair is also of import. While it is not possible to truly "repair" damaged hair, it is possible to assist restore its appearance of health and protect it from farther damage. Results of hair impairment include split ends, abraded and eroded hair cuticle and a resulting exposed cortex. This progressive damage leads to decreased moisture content in the hair, loss of capillary action – which limits the ability of hair to distribute natural oils – and a resulting dry experience. Hair can get stiff, ho-hum, limp, and brittle, with added potential for frizz and inflexible curls. To aid forestall pilus damage, one tin can minimise breakage past conditioning the hair shaft, a process that can help strengthen hair, protect information technology confronting heat assailment and prolong colour. In general, the objective is to change the look of deadening, faded, stiff, or limp hair to pilus that has shine, smoothness, natural colour, a soft and moisturised feel, manageability, and good volume. However, consumer buying habits show the tendency toward products offer hair protection does not tell the whole story. A range of additional expectations, some subtle, also influence product choice. In addition to pure performance, consumers look for a distinctive sensory experience, whether in terms of texture, feel during application, fragrance or visual characteristics. They as well increasingly seek products with natural ingredients that connote freshness and purity, or those that indicate environmental responsibility on the part of the manufacturer or the consumer. An array of specialty silicone materials can help formulators create hair care products that help protect pilus, whether from environmental factors, colour loss, heat associated with pilus training – even the effects of daily combing and styling. These materials, in combination with other specialty ingredients such as natural oils and butters, waxes, and innovative thickening and emulsifying agents, tin work together to offering synergistic furnishings in today's innovative pilus care products.
Evaluating hair protection
This article describes a diversity methods used by Dow Corning to evaluate the protective properties of silicones for pilus intendance products. Quantitative methods were employed for all iii primary protective strategies: hair strengthening, heat protection and colour protection. Hair strengthening A number of qualitative approaches are bachelor for measuring pilus forcefulness, such equally tensile testing, fatigue testing, microscopic analyses, light scattering measurements, and simple combing and counting, which involves combing a tress of hair and physically counting the number of hairs that pause. Tensile tests involve applying a load to a hair fibre and measuring the corporeality of strength. In this study, we chose unmarried fibre tensile testing for several reasons. Offset, the method is both scientific and quantitative, and it is a recognised measure of pilus strength.three-6 In addition, results are non afflicted by friction resistance – silicones are already known for reducing friction. Finally, in-house expertise already existed for other fibre materials, which was translated to measurements of single pilus fibres.
Heat protection Understanding various parameters that bear upon hair exposed to estrus can exist very complex. Different test methods tin measure unlike factors associated with oestrus damage. Thermodynamic studies measure heat flow through a material and can be used to demonstrate the importance of keeping moisture in hair. High thermal electrical conductivity implies fast heat transfer. Because silicones have very low thermal conductivity, one might expect that because heat flow is wearisome, the presence of silicone along the pilus shaft might reduce hair impairment from heat.7 Heat protection tin can likewise be determined using thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) to evaluate weight (moisture) loss in hair during heat treatments. Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) can exist used to measure the thermal behaviour of hair in terms of its heat absorption during the heat handling. Heat flow is measured every bit hair is exposed to increasing temperatures from 40°C to 180°C.
Colour protection Colorimetry is widely used to measure changes in color afterward repeated shampooing and UV exposure of colourtreated hair.eight A spectrophotometer allows the determination of three parameters that define color:
• L* values indicate the level of darkness (colour intensity).
• a* values bespeak the redness intensity (from greenish to ruddy).
• b* values indicate yellowing level (from blue to yellow).
Qualitative observations were conducted to complement the quantitative protection studies. Scanning electroscopic microscope (SEM) photographs were used to evaluate the condition of hair with and without various treatments. Sensory evaluations were correlated to analytical results for parameters such as smooth, feel and colour intensity, to ensure consumer perceivable benefits.
Results of studies
Silicones were initially incorporated into hair intendance formulations for their conditioning and perception of moisturisation backdrop. Today, a variety of silicone materials are recognised for their essential sensory and functional benefits in a range of shampoos, conditioners, styling, and fixative products for hair. These versatile raw materials can be used to give a soft and smooth experience, aid detangling and combing, add shine, enhance straightening or encourage curl formation, provide bodifying effects, and act as anti-frizz agents. In this study, a variety of silicone materials were screened as protective agents by assisting color retentiveness, protecting against estrus damage from curling irons and blow dryers, and/or providing strengthening properties to hair.
Hair strengthening With their inherent conditioning ability, many silicones address the physical and environmental causes of hair impairment. They can be especially useful in indigenous hair care products and products designed for weakened or damaged hair. In these cases, the ability of silicones to impart a perception of moisturisation and control frizzy hair contribute to the overall conditioning issue. As office of these evaluations, nonfunctional and functional silicones were evaluated for their ability to enhance hair force, both dilute and in a leave-on hair care formulation, using single fibre tensile measurements. The piece of work at twenty% elongation was calculated and statistical comparisons were made between the untreated and treated fibres. Two silicones in particular demonstrated properties to enhance pilus strengthening, making information technology less prone to damage and breakage:
• Silicone quaternium-16 (and) undeceth-11 (and) butyloctanol (and) undeceth-5.
• Aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone.
•
Figures 1 and 2 bear witness samples treated with dilute leave-on and rinse-off silicone solutions exhibited higher work compared to the untreated control. Two possible mechanisms may explain how a silicone pic contributes to hair strength. It may protect the hair cuticle during elongation, and it may aid in sealing the hair cuticle, helping prevent moisture penetration into and out of the hair cortex to maintain an optimal moisture level for hair strength. The pilus strengthening properties of these materials, combined with the other functional benefits of silicones for pilus care, differentiate silicones from other traditional ingredients promoted for enhancing pilus strength.
Heat protection The moisture content of pilus is crucial to maintaining its good for you appearance and experience. Processes such as blow drying and curling with hot irons tin chop-chop reduce hair moisture content below its normal level and tin lead to harm. Hair dryers and other heated appliances starting time soften the keratin of the hair. If the appliances are too hot, they can really cause the water in the hair to eddy, forming minute bubbling of steam within the softened hair shaft, weakening the fibre and potentially leading to full fracture. In full general silicones take practiced thermodynamic properties to help protect hair and maintain its moisture. Analytical assessments using dynamic TGA were completed to establish the possible role silicones could play in reducing the loss of water from hair fibres. Pilus tresses were treated with various silicones practical at a level of 0.125 g silicone per gram of hair. Treated hair was then subjected to diverse heating cycles in a nitrogen atmosphere. Heating occurred at a rate of ten°C per minute, ranging from 25°C to 300°C. Figure 3 compares the results of pilus tresses treated with three silicones vs no silicone. All the silicones helped retain moisture in the hair over a broad temperature range, with the silicone quat microemulsion performing all-time. In the DSC studies, all tresses treated with silicones allowed three times more oestrus to exist absorbed. The silicone moving-picture show on hair makes information technology more difficult for water to evaporate, and this retention of moisture translates to better oestrus protection. As Figure four shows, lauryl PEG/PPG- eighteen/18 methicone, divinyldimethicone/ dimethicone copolymer (and) C12-13 pareth-23 (and) C12-xiii pareth-iii, and bis (C13-xv alkoxy) PG amodimethicone gave the strongest operation. The blend of cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethiconol with cyclopentasiloxane also outperformed the command. Qualitative analysis using SEM helped validate the other estrus protection studies. The SEM photographs of Figure v compare untreated pilus and pilus treated with keen aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone. After three thermal/ mechanical stress cycles, the hair protected with silicone had a smoothen, unabraded cuticle. In dissimilarity, the untreated hair had a scaled appearance due to desquamation of the hair cuticle. Sensory evaluations are some other qualitative arroyo that supports quantitative studies. Silicones provide an improved sensory profile later heat treatments, peculiarly subsequently a shampoo bicycle. Sensory results of the tests were shown in 2 means. Five individual attributes of dry pilus (feel, combability, detangling, static formation and shine) were evaluated. A sensory alphabetize as well was calculated based on an average of the v sensory attributes. The sensory index provides a practiced comparative mensurate of the overall conditioning of the hair. Earlier shampooing, and with or without silicone treatment, sensory profiles of heat-treated pilus were similar, and also amend than pilus that had not received the heat treatment. In other words, thermal treatments alone initially improved the positive sensory characteristics of hair, possibly because they temporarily flatten the hair cuticle. These results reflect a common observation: immediately after thermal treatment, hair typically feels better and is gratis of tangles, easier to comb and more than shiny (Fig. half-dozen). The divergence becomes apparent later on shampooing, when the consumer may realise that his or her hair is damaged. In this study, silicone-treated hair (with or without heat treatment) always had a better advent than hair not treated with silicone (with or without oestrus), and thermal treatments clearly decreased the sensory profile of the hair tresses. After estrus treatment and fifty-fifty one shampoo, hair non treated with silicone showed the effects of moisture loss and cuticle damage promoted past the heat treatment. Still, on the tresses treated with silicone, positive sensory furnishings were sustained through three shampoos, showing that silicones provided protection from heat damage and improved the sensory profile of the hair tresses. As Effigy seven shows, tresses treated with silicones retained their positive sensory characteristics after shampooing, while the tress not treated with silicone did not. These studies propose that silicones can protect hair during heat treatments and confronting the loss of positive sensory characteristics, even after shampooing.
Colour protection The use of hair colorants is growing on a global scale, and with this growth the importance of maintaining long-term functioning. Today'due south market is mainly composed of rinse-off conditioners and shampoos, and claims of color protection are linked to hair beauty, such as shine, softness and suppleness. Considering of the prevalence of rinse-off products with color protection claims, tests were based on that product form. However, the consumer'due south need for colour maintenance is non fully fulfilled, and opportunity exists for a wider range of product forms that offer colour protection. The potential for silicones to assist colour retention was measured using a colorimeter/spectrophotometer to tape the influence of washes and UV exposure on colour depth, anti-yellowing and loss of redness. Twenty measurements were made per tress of slightly bleached hair, which shows the best colour reproducibility when treated with a leading make commercial permanent colorant. The impact on colour loss of these tresses due to shampoo washes, rinse-off applications and UV exposure was studied. Silicones used at a two% active level demonstrate colour protection properties when incorporated in rinse-off conditioner treatments. Figures viii to 10 illustrate the ability of silicones to help maintain the three components of colour as recorded with the colorimeter: L* for colour depth, b* for yellowing and a* for redness.
The contribution of silicone to maintenance of color depth can be described past the following equation:
• L*(%)={(Lt-L o)*100/Lo}control- {(50 t-L o)*100/Lo}silicone
The contribution of silicone to color maintenance in terms of anti-yellowing can be described by the post-obit equation:
• b*(%)={(b*t-b*o)*100/b*o}control- {(b*t-b*o)*100/bo}silicone
The contribution of silicone to color maintenance in terms of loss of redness can exist described by the following equation:
• a*(%)={(a*t-a*o)*100/a*o}control- {(at-ao)*100/ao}silicone
In a like series of tests, coloured hair treated with a rinse-off conditioner containing bis-isobutyl PEG/PPG- twenty/35/amodimethicone copolymer (and) cetyl ethylhexanoate (and) polysorbate 80 (and) butylene glycol shows the ability of this silicone emulsion to maintain redness. Figure 11 shows the a* value evolution with washes. A sensory evaluation using eighteen panellists too demonstrated that tresses treated with eight shampoo and conditioner cycles retained more red when bis-isobutyl PEG/PPG-xx/35/ amodimethicone copolymer (and) cetyl ethylhexanoate (and) polysorbate 80 (and) butylene glycol was used. In another exam, bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicone likewise contributed positively to a* value (Figure 12). Subsequently eight shampoo and conditioner cycles on hair tresses, this silicone fluid had less carmine color loss than the control and matched the commercial benchmark at the 95% confidence level. A sensory evaluation using 14 panellists confirmed these results. Additional tests have demonstrated that the addition of silicone quaternium- 16 (and) undeceth-11 (and) butyloctanol (and) undeceth-5, or amodimethicone (and) C11-xv pareth-7 (and) laureth-9 (and) glycerin (and) trideceth-12, can besides improve color protection backdrop from rinse-off conditioners. Table i summarises the influence of silicones on colour depth and colour intensity. Several hypotheses might help explain why silicones are expert protective agents against colour fading. Although most colorant does not penetrate the hair cuticle, a portion remains on the upper layers of cuticle and tin easily exist removed when hair is washed. When deposited on hair, silicone forms an external, homogeneous, h2o-insoluble moving-picture show that helps color redeposit on the hair during washes. In many applications, silicones act equally a synergistic agent. It has too been suggested that a synergistic deposition mechanism between the colorant and the silicone can occur. This would pb to a higher degradation of the colorant in the presence of silicone when hair is washed. Silicones take very low surface tension and aid colorant spread on hair and form a homogeneous film. In add-on, because of this spreading behaviour, silicone may help the colorant further penetrate the hair cuticle.
Summary of results
Based on the collection of studies, the following silicones showed potential for providing protective characteristics along with versatility in conception for hair intendance products (Table 2 summarises their protective properties).
• Aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone (Dow Corning 2-2078 Fluid), a liquid amino phenyl silicone resin.
• Bis-isobutyl PEG/PPG- 20/35/amodimethicone copolymer (and) cetyl ethylhexanoate (and) polysorbate 80 (and) butylene glycol (Dow Corning CE 8401 Emulsion), an amino silicone polyether emulsion.
• Silicone quaternium-xvi (and) undeceth-11 (and) butyloctanol (and) undeceth-5 (Dow Corning 5-7113 Silicone Quat Microemulsion), a 25% nonionic microemulsion of cationised aminofunctional silicone polymer.
• Amodimethicone (and) C11-15 pareth-seven (and) laureth-9 (and) glycerin (and) trideceth-12 (Dow Corning CE-8170 AF Microemulsion), a microemulsion of a high molecular weight aminofunctional silicone polymer.
• Bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicone (Dow Corning AP-8087 Fluid), an aminofunctional silicone polymer.
• Amodimethicone (Dow Corning two-8566 Amino Fluid), a high molecular weight aminofunctional silicone.
• Bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone (Dow Corning 8500 Conditioning Amanuensis), an amino glycol copolymer.
Versatility for formulating
Dow Corning has developed a diverseness of prototype formulations to illustrate how the benefits of tested silicones can be extended to formulations that can provide multifunctional, individualised properties for consumers who seek performance and protection, along with distinctive sensory characteristics. The leave-in conditioner of Conception one demonstrates a combination of silicones that may offer colour and estrus protection along with a soft feel and increased volume. The clear, water-based formulation is an added benefit for consumers who seek more natural appearing products. The conception offers versatility for delivery equally a spray or from the bottle. A variation on Conception 1, Formulation 2 becomes a styling mousse with the add-on of a water-based styling agent. Conception iii was designed to protect or restore the beauty of curly hair. It can be used as a leave-on handling if strong conditioning is required, or as a rinse-off conditioner. Waxes, natural oils and silicones provide complementary benefits. Studies described in this article demonstrate that the addition of bis (C13-fifteen alkoxy) PG amodimethicone can provide color protection properties to hair.
Conclusions
The silicones described here provide a range of hair protection properties, which, when combined with their functional and sensory benefits offer greater flexibility for formulators. Additionally, these specialty silicones tin can be used with organic materials, including natural oils, butters or waxes to provide synergistic furnishings for conditioning, shine and sensory backdrop. While considering global market needs based on hair types and weather condition, indigenous preferences and evolving mode trends, these silicone materials offer a wide range of innovative technology and formulation concepts for hair protection. Data from our studies can also serve every bit a screening tool to help formulators determine which silicones are virtually appropriate for specific applications or chemistries.9 The result can be shorter test times and faster development of highly differentiated products to protect hair and assistance create and maintain its healthy appearance.
References
1 Dow Corning survey based on Global New Products Database, Mintel Grouping (2007, 2008). 2 Personal advice, Gillian Morris, director, Kline & Visitor (June 2008). 3 Scharfeld T., D'Arrigo C., Lim K.H. A unmarried hair fiber tensile tester for operation nether a scanning electron microscope, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 1-5. 4 Syed A.N., Ayoub H. Correlating porosity and tensile strength of chemically modified hair. Cosmet Toiletries. 117: 11. 57-64 (November 2002). v Syed A.N., Ayoub H., Kuhajda A. Recent advances in treating excessively curly pilus. Cosmet Toiletries. 113: 9. 47-56 (September 1998). vi Johnson B., Quackenbush One thousand., Swanton B. Silicones for pilus strengthening. Cosmet Toiletries 122: 3. 59-64 (2007). 7 Gomes A. O uso da Technologia Cosmética no Trabalho do profissional cabeleireiro. 102-105, Ed. Senac – Brasil, (1999). 8 Gomes A. et al. The use of silicones in hair colorant formulations. Dow Corning white paper (2000). 9 For additional details, come across www.dowcorning.com/personal
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